The answer depends on who’s asking. Actually, the answer depends on context, meaning that sometimes the company shared, the venue, or the occasion matters far more than the wine. So fixating on finding the perfect wine to go with the perfect dish generally won’t get you much. In fact, the more you obsess about getting a pairing right, the more you won’t enjoy the meal and you’ll probably annoy everyone else in the vicinity.
But when does food and wine pairing matter?
There are countless books written on the subject, not all of them useful. However, some are outstanding. Evan Goldstein’s two tomes, Perfect Pairings and Daring Pairings, are pretty much the bibles on the subject. But say you don’t want to read a lengthy abstract on what bottle to reach for with a certain dish. Or maybe you just want to know when it makes sense to overthink matching wine with food. Here are some general guidelines to help.
To begin, you should know that certain styles of wines tend to work with a wide range of dishes:
- The most versatile white wines are unoaked and have high acidity and moderate alcohol. In contrast, the least versatile white wines have high alcohol and new oak.
- Versatile white wines include Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and unoaked Chardonnay.
- Likewise, the most forgiving red wines are medium-bodied with moderate tannins and less oak. The least flexible reds have high alcohol, high tannin, and new oak.
- Versatile red wines are those made from Pinot Noir, Gamay, Sangiovese, Barbera, Tempranillo, and lighter Grenache blends.
- Tannic, oaky reds like Cabernet Sauvignon work with a much narrower range of foods, and usually require something with fat, protein, and salt.
Two other thoughts:
- Sparkling wines such as Cava and Champagne work well with a wide range of dishes.
- Dry rosés from any number of different grapes and places are among the most versatile wines of all.
CAVEAT: This is important—and yet another example of how context trumps everything. Despite what I’ve just told you, some people will drink whatever they like to drink regardless of what’s on the plate. And that’s just fine. To each their own.
Now, armed with the basics, it’s time to consider the question at hand. When does food and wine pairing matter? The answer depends on the occasion and/or the venue. Here are some different scenarios and helpful operating instructions.
Trattoria laminato: The Applebee’s of the world. Places with huge laminated menus that get so tacky they should put them through the dishwasher on the regular. Some of these places have decent wines by the glass, but don’t count on it. At least Applebee’s has a full bar, which is good because sometimes stronger water is needed. As for wine, follow the rules above. Unoaked whites and lighter reds. But if you’re going in for heavier, saltier protein, by all means opt for a glass of Malbec or Merlot. If it’s the shiny chicken in one of its many variations, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio will work. Keep in mind that none of this has to change your life. Trust me, it won’t. But maybe it will get a mention in your daily journal.
Informal gathering at home: Friends coming over for a glass of wine and a nosh? Don’t pull out anything fancy. Odds are whatever bites you put out will be salty and a bit fatty. So the lighter unoaked whites and medium-bodied reds without too much tannin rule definitely applies. However, you should probably also have Chardonnay on hand as there are those who drink it with everything including corn flakes. Sometimes, wine is simply a social lubricant.
Back yard BBQ: Implies grilling is involved. Grilled meats do best with young fruit-forward reds with some tannin or an oaky Chardonnay. Here the intensity of the preparation (grilling) more than matches the tannin and oak in the wine. My vote for a BBQ wine, by the way, is completely different: a dry rosé from Spain, Italy, or Southern France.
Every night dinner: At home, we call it “cuisine of opportunity,” a phrase coined by Jacques Pepin. It means we look in the fridge and pantry to see what’s there, which is often leftovers. Then we cobble together dinner. So the wine needs to be equally unfussy. Not to be repetitive, but we drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc in all its various forms. Also getting a lot of play are Italian whites ranging from Pinot Bianco to Soave Classico to Grillo. Pink wines are also a regular in the rotation. Red wines of choice include Pinot Noir, Gamay, and lighter Rhône blends.
Special occasion dinner: Birthday or anniversary dinner at home with friends? A few suggestions. First, even if you have a huge cellar that you routinely bore unsuspecting people senseless about, no more than four wines with the dinner. Period. Champagne, white, red, and a dessert wine. More than four wines just confuses people. Not only that, the poor champagne will be forgotten, even the likes of a pricy prestige cuvée.
If you’re going to serve a special bottle, keep two things in mind. First, make sure the other people have a clue about wine. Otherwise, you’ll be frustrated by your compadres as they blithely suck down your precious vintage like it’s box wine.
Second, if your special bottle is older than 15 years, be mindful of what you serve for dinner. A good rule of thumb is nothing too strongly flavored or spicy. Otherwise, the wine gets overwhelmed by the food. If serving beef, lamb, or pork with an older red wine, there’s an inverse ratio between the age/amount of tannin in the wine and how much fat needs to be in the protein. For example, a young Malbec is perfect with a grilled ribeye, with the latter having more than its share of fat, not to mention the intense preparation from the grill. Conversely, an older red with less tannin needs a cut of beef like a filet, because it doesn’t have much fat.
Fancy-ass restaurant dinner: Here you must do your homework before darkening the door of the restaurant. Go online and take a look at their list. Pick a few wines in your desired price range. Take a picture of them on your phone—or put them in the notes app. Once at the restaurant, confirm that the wines are on the list. Don’t be surprised if they’re missing. Restaurants are notorious for not updating their lists online. But at least you can show your selections to the sommelier/server and ask for similar wines in the same price range. Otherwise, the golden rule of unoaked high acid whites and medium-bodied reds without too much oak or tannin still applies. The exception is if you’re having a hunk of some exotic protein.
Party of 12 right this way please: If you’re out with a group—say a business dinner—and somehow get handed the list at a restaurant, don’t panic. The golden rule definitely applies here. Opt for an unoaked white like Sauvignon Blanc or a medium-bodied red like Pinot Noir. The two styles will cover practically everything. Your boss will think you’re a genius. Or they will grab the list and order some over-priced Cabernet that everyone has to drink. C’est la vie.
