In a chapter called “Perception as a Skill,” Barwich goes into considerable detail about watching part of the second Somm movie (Into the Bottle) in which then student–now MS–Ian Cauble tastes on camera. As Cauble goes through a wine using the MS deductive tasting grid, Barwich comments on what she thinks Cauble is doing using the context of her knowledge and research. I think she misses several important points but that’s another story. Arguably the most important idea presented in the chapter comes from a comment made by one of Barwich’s colleagues: “skilled pattern recognition is what unites the perceptual expertise of perfumers and sommeliers.”
It’s a brilliant statement and describes what we as professionals do when analyzing wine. In Ian’s case, this means taking a wine through the lengthy list that makes up the MS deductive tasting grid. Think about it for a moment. A wine has to be assessed using over 40 different criteria. Given there may be several different kinds of fruit and non-fruit savory aromas/flavors in a wine, there could be several dozen itty-bitty pieces of sensory information that have be recognized, logged, and kept in one’s internal field in order to be able to get to the finish line and make a conclusion about the wine’s identity.
The conclusion is by far the trickiest part of the entire exercise. For the record, it consistently freaks the hell out of students. It also requires pattern recognition in the form of being able to identify a handful of the most important aromatics I call “impact compounds” and then matching them to the fruit quality/character and the structural levels (acid, alcohol, phenolic bitterness, and tannin) in the wine. All this information is visually represented internally, even the structural aspects which are images of some kind of scale or dial to confirm what’s being tasted and felt on the palate.
Before making a conclusion, Cauble–and practically any taster for that matter– literally looks internally at five-to-nine images in his mind’s eye that represent key smells/tastes and structural levels, and then concludes, “wow, this must be Gran Reserva Rioja from 2012.” Or something like that. Note I said practically. It’s not universal. It’s been my experience that a very small percentage of tasters are true synesthetes, who regularly experience cross-talk between the senses and process the wine experience in a completely different way.
Pattern recognition goes far beyond wine tasting. Every second of the day we’re bombarded with countless bits of sensory information. If our brain didn’t filter out 99.9% of it, our motherboards would constantly freeze. What’s interesting is how we we’re able to constantly categorize all the information and look for patterns we recognize so the world makes “sense” to us. This allows us to find our mate in a sea of faces (now more challenging because of masks) or remember how to get dressed in the dark (or not).
Pattern recognition is an important strategy for identifying grapes and wines when blind tasting, not to mention judging quality and assessing typicity. The following is a guide of sorts to classic grapes and wines, each with a subset of the most important impact compounds, fruit qualities, and structural levels. Memorizing these subsets will help to form unique internal “patterns” for recognizing grapes and wines during an exam. It goes without say that these patterns are my own. I strongly recommend that students use them as a launching point and create their own lists.
White Grapes and Wines
Chardonnay: Chablis 1er Cru
Fruit quality: tart
Impact compounds: lees contact, possible malolactic (ML), pronounced chalky minerality, and possible use of oak
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity.
Chardonnay: Côtes de Beaune
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: lees – ML – mushroom/earth/mineral – oak usage (often new)
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Chardonnay: New World
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – over ripe
Impact compounds: lees contact – ML – oak usage (often new)
Structure: dry to off dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity
Sauvignon Blanc: Sancerre/Pouilly-Fumé
Fruit quality: tart
Impact compounds: green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – pronounced chalky mineral – possible oak in Pouilly-Fumé
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Sauvignon Blanc: New Zealand
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – possible mineral
Structure: dry – medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity
Chenin Blanc: Loire Valley
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – botrytis influence
Impact compounds: SO2 – possible botrytis – considerable chalky minerality
Structure: bone dry to medium sweet depending on style – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Chenin Blanc: California – Washington State
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: overt fruit basket quality – possible residual sugar
Structure: off-dry to slightly sweet – medium alcohol – medium-plus acidity
Albariño: Spain – Rias Biaxas
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: considerable floral (terpenes) – pilsner-lees contact – mineral
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – phenolic bitterness
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – possible botrytis influence
Impact compounds: white pepper (rotundone) – herbal-vegetal-botanical notes – lees contact – earth/mineral – botrytis influence depending on style
Structure: dry to off dry – medium to high alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – phenolic bitterness
Riesling: Germany
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – possible botrytis influence
Impact compounds: possible SO2 – TDN – possible botrytis influence – pronounced slate/mineral
Structure: dry (trocken) to very sweet depending on classification – low to medium alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Riesling: Alsace
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – possible botrytis
Impact compounds: TDN – possible botrytis – considerable earth/mineral
Structure: dry to slightly sweet – medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Riesling: Clare Valley and Eden Valley
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: considerable TDN – pronounced mineral
Structure: bone dry to dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Pinot Gris: Alsace
Fruit quality: ripe – possible botrytis
Impact compounds: ripe fruit quality – possible botrytis
Structure: dry to off-dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – phenolic bitterness
Pinot Grigio: Alto Adige
Fruit quality: tart
Impact compounds: floral (terpenes) – lees contact – mineral
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus acidity – slight phenolic bitterness
Viognier: Northern Rhône
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: considerable floral (terpenes) – less contact – ML – mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – phenolic bitterness
Viognier: California – Australia
Fruit quality: ripe – overripe
Impact compounds: considerable floral (terpenes) – lees contact – ML – oak usage
Structure: dry to off-dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – phenolic bitterness
Gewurztraminer: Alsace
Fruit quality: ripe – over ripe – canned – possible botrytis influence
Impact compounds: pronounced floral (terpenes) – possible botrytis – considerable earth/mineral
Structure: dry to slightly sweet – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-minus to medium acidity – pronounced phenolic bitterness
Muscat à Petits Grains: Alsace
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – over ripe
Impact compounds: pronounced floral (terpenes) – possible botrytis – earth/mineral
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – considerable phenolic bitterness
Torrontés: Argentina
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: overt fruit quality – considerable floral (terpenes) – common lack of earth/mineral
Structure: dry – medium-plus alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – considerable phenolic bitterness
Marsanne-Roussanne Blend: Rhône Valley
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – over ripe
Impact compounds: floral/terpenes in lighter style – oxidative character in oak-aged wines – earth/mineral – possible oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – phenolic bitterness
Semillon: Bordeaux – Graves Sec
Fruit quality: tart and ripe
Impact compounds: SO2/mercaptan note – mineral – phenolic bitterness – possible oak usage
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus acidity – slight phenolic bitterness
Semillon: Bordeaux: Sauternes – Barsac
Fruit quality: ripe – over ripe – botrytis influence
Impact compounds: botrytis character – pronounced earth – oak usage
Structure: medium sweet to dessert sweet – medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity
Semillon: Australia: Hunter Valley
Fruit quality: tart – under ripe
Impact compounds: two styles: stainless steel wines with floral/terpenes – mineral – phenolic bitterness; oak-aged wines – oxidative character – mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-minus to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity
Melon de Bourgogne: Muscadet
Fruit quality: tart
ID Keys: lees contact – pronounced mineral
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – high acidity
Assyrtiko: Santorini
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
ID Keys: tart-ripe fruit quality – pronounced minerality – possible oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – considerable phenolic bitterness
Cabernet Sauvignon Blend: Left Bank Bordeaux
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Cabernet Sauvignon: California
Fruit quality: ripe – over ripe – raisinated
ID Keys: possible raisination – possible green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – new oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Cabernet Sauvignon: South Australia – Coonawarra
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
ID Keys: pronounced green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – possible mint/eucalyptus – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Merlot Blend: Right Bank Bordeaux
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus tannin (softer tannin than Left Bank wines)
Merlot: California – Australia
Fruit quality: ripe – over ripe
Impact compounds: possible green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – oak usage
Structure: dry - medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus tannin (softer tannin than Cabernet Sauvignon)
Cabernet Franc: Loire Valley
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact Compounds: pronounced green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – possible stem inclusion – considerable chalky mineral – oak usage (used)
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Malbec: Argentina – Mendoza
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: opaque purple color – possible green herbal/vegetal (pyrazines) – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus tannin
Carmenère: Chile
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: pronounced vegetal/green peppercorn (pyrazines) – possible earth – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Pinot Noir: Burgundy – Côte de Nuits
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: lighter color – possible stem inclusion – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Pinot Noir: Burgundy – Côte de Beaune
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: lighter color – possible stem inclusion – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Impact compounds: lighter color – possible stem inclusion – earthier than Côte de Nuits – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Pinot Noir: California and Oregon
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: possible stem inclusion – possible earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Pinot Noir: New Zealand
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: lighter color – possible stem inclusion – herb/leaf – possible mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Gamay: Beaujolais Villages
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – candied
Impact compounds: lighter color – carbonic maceration notes – stem inclusion – earth/mineral
Structure: dry – medium alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-minus to medium tannin
Gamay: Beaujolais Cru
Fruit quality: tart – ripe
Impact compounds: possible carbonic or semi-carbonic notes – possible stem inclusion – earth/mineral – possible oak usage (used)
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried
Impact compounds: anise/herb – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: bone dry to dry – medium plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – medium-plus tannin
Sangiovese: Brunello di Montalcino
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – oxidized
Impact compounds: anise/herb – considerable earth/mineral – oxidative character – oak usage (barrique or larger barrel)
Structure: bone dry to dry – medium plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Sangiovese: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried
Impact compounds: fruit ripeness (darker fruit from international varieties) – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage (barrique or larger barrel)
Structure: bone dry to dry – medium to medium plus alcohol – medium-plus to high acidity – medium tannin
Nebbiolo: Piedmont – Barolo and Barbaresco
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – oxidized
Impact compounds: evolved color and secondary color – pronounced floral – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: bone dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – high acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Barbera: Piedmont
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – possible oxidation
Impact compounds: herbal notes – possible oxidation – earth/mineral – possible oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Corvina Blends: Veneto – Amarone
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – raisinated – oxidized – botrytis
Impact compounds: pronounced raisination – volatile acidity – possible botrytis – possible Brettanomyces – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry to off-dry – high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Aglianico: Campania
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried
Impact compounds: baked fruit quality – reductive/sulfur compound quality – pronounced earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Tempranillo: Spain – Rioja Reserva and Gran Reserva
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – oxidized
Impact compounds: dried/oxidative character – chalk-mineral – oak usage (American oak with traditional wines)
Structure: dry with medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Zinfandel: California – Dry Creek Valley
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – jammy – raisinated
Impact compounds: possible uneven fruit ripeness – black/white pepper (rotundone) – lack of earth/mineral – oak usage (often American)
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Syrah: Northern Rhône
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried
Impact compounds: possible uneven fruit ripeness – black/white pepper (rotundone) – savory meat/game qualities – possible Brettanomyces – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium to high tannin
Syrah: Australia – Barossa Shiraz
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – dried – raisinated
Impact compounds: possible raisinated fruit – black/white pepper (rotundone) – savory meat/game qualities –– oak usage (sometimes American)
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium-plus tannin
Grenache Blend: Southern Rhône – Châteauneuf-du-Pape/Gigondas
Fruit quality: ripe – jammy – cooked – dried
Impact compounds: Mediterranean herb/garrigue – black/white pepper (rotundone) – savory meat/game qualities – considerable earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Grenache: Australia – Barossa
Fruit quality: ripe – jammy
Impact compounds: jammy fruit quality – black/white pepper (rotundone) – mint/eucalyptus – oak usage
Structure: dry – high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium-plus tannin
Mourvèdre: Provence – Bandol
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – jammy
Impact compounds: black/white pepper (rotundone) – savory herb – possible reductive quality – pronounced earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium-plus acidity – medium-plus to high tannin
Monastrell: Spain – Jumilla
Fruit quality: ripe – jammy
Impact compounds: jammy-raisinated quality – black/white pepper (rotundone) – savory herb – earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium-plus to high alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Pinotage – South Africa
Fruit quality: tart – ripe – jammy
Impact compounds: pronounced herbal/vegetal – possible reductive/sulfur compound – possible Brettanomyces – pronounced earth/mineral – oak usage
Structure: dry – medium to medium-plus alcohol – medium to medium-plus acidity – medium to medium-plus tannin
Author’s note: Here are some suggestions on how to use the information in this post.
- There is a great deal of information above. Break it down into three-to five grapes at a time to make it manageable.
- In regards to your internal images, make them big, bright, and close in proximity in your internal field.
- You’ll need to be able to visually represent the structural levels internally. Use a scale or a dial to do so. For more information, see the post called “Sight Unseen” from January of 2020.
- In your internal field, fan the images of important aromatics out in front of you in a simple pattern—left to right, up-down, or whatever is easiest. Do the same with the structural elements.
- Make auditory part of your memory work. As you “look at” the internal pattern of aromatic and structure level images, name each internally—or out loud.
- Remember to have fun with the process.