The Grand Illusion

n Some years ago I lent a recording of Bartok’s Concerto for Orchestra to a colleague. We’d been having a series of conversations about classical music that ended in 20th century works. I remember raving about Bartok’s concerto, my favorite 20th century piece. I...

On Tasting Notes

n ©Leo Cullum – New Yorker Magazine Tasting notes. They’re a blessing or a curse depending on your viewpoint. If you’re in the business, they’re a necessity. For industry pros, a tasting note is a multi-layered memory device. It’s an attempt to record...

Dealing with Wine in Restaurants

n ©Leo Cullum – New Yorker Magazine Recently I had a lengthy phone conversation with a friend who’s not in the wine industry. During our chat he happened to mention how difficult it was to get a good bottle of wine in a restaurant. My reaction was somewhere...

Dominatrix Wines

n Joan Miró – The Sparkling Gold Bird Encircles the Thought of the Poet – 1951 The first time I ever paid for a professional tasting was in the summer of 1987. It was at Singer & Foy, a now-defunct retailer then located just off Washington Square in...

Confronting the Evil Dwarves

n Weingut Wittman, Rheinhessen In blind tasting practice and exams there are two sets of grapes that consistently give students nightmares. I call them the “Evil Dwarves.” Each set is populated by grapes easily confused for one other. The first set is made up of...