Jessica Dupuy is an Austin-based wine educator, writer, and blogger (jessicadupuy.com). She and I will be at the TEXSOM conference next month. Recently, she interviewed me for her Italian Wine Podcast. During our session, we chatted about my tasting seminar at the upcoming conference, my career, and more. One of the questions Jessica asked was, “if you could take a wine adventure anywhere in Italy, which region would you visit, and what would be in your glass?”
To me, it’s an almost impossible question to answer. I think Italy is the most complex country for wine, even beyond France. The fact the country’s 20 regions somehow became unified into a single political entity in the 19th century under Garibaldi still seems miraculous. And having been in country a number of times, I’ve seen first hand how strong regional identity is. Consider how Alto Adige was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until the end of WWI. Residents there still speak German first, then Italian. As opposed to Sicily, which is closer to Tunisia than Rome, and also one of the most unique places for wine in the world—and many other things, for that matter.
Asking me to single out an Italian place or a wine then is next to impossible. It’s like asking to pick your favorite child, or whether you preferred Ginger to Mary Ann on Gilligan’s Island. My answer for that one, even as a kid, was yes.
If I had to choose just one country where to spend the rest of my life eating and drinking, it would be Italy. I think Italian wine goes better with food more than any other—especially Italian food. Regardless of place, the character of the wines is distinctive. Jessica used the term “Italianity,” and it fits. But more often than not, the wines need food. The fact that so many of them are bone dry, have elevated acidity, and are tannic if red, almost demands they be enjoyed at the table. Which hopefully means one is sharing a bottle and a meal.
In lieu of coming up with a single Italian region/wine, I told Jessica I’d put together a list of a dozen or so favorite Italian wines and spirits that I’d gladly sip any time. Here’s my list.
Italian Wines and Spirits
Negroni: Any serious contemplation about a meal—or life—should be accompanied by a bitter aperitivo. The Negroni is just that. In fact, I think it’s the perfect cocktail. A magic alchemy of bitter Campari, the spicy sweetness of red vermouth, and the intensity, texture, and botanicals of gin. But I’m also picky about my Negroni’s, at least at home. My typical concoction is equal parts—and it must be measured for the magic to happen—Campari, Carpano Antica, and Plymouth 80-proof gin. The Carpano Antica is the original recipe for sweet Vermouth with orange peel and spice. Plymouth is arguably the smoothest gin there is because the water used for distillation is taken from the Devon Moors.
Sorelle Bronca Valdobiaddene Prosecco Superiore, L’Ovest: When it’s just right, Prosecco has a perfect fruit/acid/bubble balance. Sorelle Bronca does it consistently.
Ca del Bosco Franciacorta, Annamaria Clemente: There’s a unique texture and earthiness I get in Franciacorta that I never find in champagne—or in any other sparkling wine. The Annamaria Clemente is one of the best.
Cantina Terlano: One of my favorite wineries anywhere, and the only producer on my list with two wines. Their Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva is one of the top wines made from the varietal. Ditto that the Lagrein Riserva Porphyry, with its concentrated but weightless palate and unique flavor profile.
Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica, Sinex: one of the finest wines of the appellation. It’s laser-focused with saline-mineral and bracing acidity. And as remote from the fish bottle wines of old as the Dog Star.
Mascarello Barolo, Monprivato: I go back and forth between Nebbiolo and Sangiovese as my favorite red grape/wine. Tasting Mascarello lands me firmly in the Nebbiolo camp every time. There’s something endlessly alluring about a wine with so much power and complexity, and yet so superbly balanced.
Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino: the yang to the Mascarello’s yin. If Brunello’s are the most Burgundian of Sangiovese-based wines, Col d’Orcia is like Chambolle Musigny.
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, San Lorenzo: Another singular expression of Sangiovese. One sip and you know why the Gran Selezione category in Chianti Classico was created.
Clelia Romano Fiano d’ Avelino, Colli di Lapio: I first came across Clelia Romano’s wonderful Fiano when I was working with good friend Peter Granoff at Virtual Vineyards in the late 90s. Then, Rand Yazzolino of Estate Wines left us a bottle and urged us to try it ASAP. It was the first vintage he’d imported and the supply was limited. We opened the bottle that afternoon and called him immediately, committing to everything he had. I’ve been a huge fan of Fiano since, and Clelia Romano’s is still my favorite.
Benanti Etna Rosso: I call Etna Rosso volcanic Burgundy. But the wines are deceptively powerful and yet transparent. Given so many distinct terroirs on Etna, we’ll be discovering all the nuances of the wines for years to come. In the meantime, Benanti is my favorite—their Etna Bianco too.
Il Poggione Vin Santo, Sant’Antimo Riserva: One of the most amazing dessert pairings I’ve ever experienced was in the restaurant at Il Poggione in Brunello di Montalcino: chestnut gelato with shaved black truffles with a drizzle of honey from the estate. The sommelier poured the winery’s Vin Santo. The pairing was remarkable.
Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé: A succulent dessert muscat from the wind-swept volcanic island of Pantelleria. Ben Ryé translates as “song of the wind” in Arabic. One of the great dessert wine values made anywhere.
Fernet Branca: I learned to drink Fernet as a bartender in San Francisco in the 80s. There’s a bottle in our pantry as I write this.
Braulio Shakerato: Easily the most delicious new adult beverage experience I’ve had within the last year. If you haven’t tried it, you must.
